Why Lobster Was Once Considered Prison Food and How It Became a Delicacy
As a chef, I've always relied on lobster shells for making bisques and stocks. Frozen lobster shells, especially when used “shell and all,” offer a luxurious and flavorful base. However, until recently, I never knew that lobsters were once given to prisoners in the name of nourishment.
It is a shocking and perhaps ironic fact that lobsters, which are now some of the most expensive and sought-after delicacies, were once so abundant and cheap that they were fed to prisoners and even apprentices and slaves. The reason behind this shift from a prison food to a gourmet dish lies in the history and evolution of lobster consumption.
Lobster’s Historical Association with Cheap Food
During the 19th century, lobsters were so plentiful that they were essentially considered common and cheap, often sold as fish or used as animal feed. This abundance made them a affordable source of protein for the less fortunate. Much like today’s food waste, lobsters that couldn't escape their nets would decompose and contaminate the surrounding oceanic ecosystem if released. In a way, they were akin to the modern 'dumpster diving' for proteins.
Crustaceans like lobsters were readily available and inexpensive, making them a popular choice for poor households and workers. They were cheap not only because they were abundant, but also because they were rarely fished commercially at that time. This overabundance led to lobster being referred to as the "poor man's meal." In reality, lobsters were both a nutritious and cost-effective protein source, providing much-needed sustenance when resources were limited.
Prisoners and Lobsters
In some prisons, during the era of cheap and abundant lobsters, prisoners received lobsters as part of their diet. These lobsters, having died, would decompose, and the powerful digestive enzymes would leach out, making them inedible. The mushy, spongy texture and strong ammonia scent of these decomposing lobsters are not desirable for consumption, and indeed, prisoners were often given an unpleasant and inhumane diet. It’s no wonder that this practice was ethically questionable; however, it was nonetheless a fact of life back then.
The Financial Context of Prison Food
Interestingly, while prisoners received inferior fare, the financial constraint for providing food in prisons was not as tight as one might imagine. In the UK, prisons allocate about ￡4 per person per day for three meals, consisting of two courses each for lunch and dinner. With this budget, providing decent but still economical meals was possible, even with the inclusion of lobster.
However, as lobster became more valued in society and the culinary world, its price skyrocketed due to increased demand and the overall prosperity of the economy. The industrial revolution, coupled with improvements in transportation methods like the railroad, allowed lobsters to be transported inland, eventually reaching the tables of the wealthy.
From Prison Food to Gourmet Delicacy
The shift in lobster’s societal status began with the recognition of its delicious qualities, particularly when served with butter. As the American northeast experienced an economic boom, so did the culinary industry. The discovery of lobster’s taste with butter changed everything. From being a common and expendable resource, lobsters transformed into a luxury food item, revered for its flavor and texture.
Another factor in this transformation was the rise of the industrial era. As the railroad network expanded, lobster could be transported inland. This created a new market and made lobster accessible to a wider population, including the wealthy. The wealthy discovered the delightful taste of lobster, and it soon became a status symbol.
The Culinary Evolution of Lobster
One of the key contributions to lobster's culinary evolution was the creation of lobster bisque. This rich and flavorful soup is derived from lobster shells, which are simmered to create a robust stock. This process not only enhances the taste but also converts the once unappetizing lobster carcass into a gourmet delicacy. The transformation was such that lobster bisque became a staple in high-end restaurants and a beloved seafood dish.
Today, lobster is rarely found on prison menus, but it still serves as a symbolic representation of the journey from a common and cheap food to a gourmet delicacy. The history of lobster in prisons serves as a poignant reminder of the ever-changing dynamics of culinary and economic trends in society.
Another interesting point is the current practice of asking for lobster during the last meal of a death row inmate. This stark contrast highlights how far from the original intention of providing prisoners with a basic diet, the symbolism and value of lobster have evolved. Lobster, once a cheap and utilitarian food, now signifies luxury and indulgence, a testament to the changing tastes and priorities of society.
Conclusion
From being considered junk and fed to prisoners and the poor, to becoming a beloved and expensive delicacy, lobsters have come a long way. Understanding this journey helps us appreciate the fluid nature of culinary and economic trends. As we continue to explore and appreciate lobster today, we are reminded of the historical context that shaped its value and status.