Cooking as Art or Craft: Beyond the Dichotomy of Science and Art

The age-old debate about whether cooking is purely an art or a craft, or if it should be viewed through the lens of science, often leaves many wondering. However, the reality is far more complex, and it's not a simple binary between these concepts.

Art vs. Science: A Nuanced Perspective

Traditionally, art and science are seen as two distinct domains. Art is often associated with creativity and subjective expression, while science is viewed as a tool for accurate observation and prediction. But in the realm of cooking, these boundaries blur significantly. Science can be a powerful tool in driving culinary innovation, but to label a craft purely based on the tools and techniques used is to overlook the true essence of the act.

Cooking as a Craft

The concept of "craft" emphasizes the skill, experience, and tradition in culinary practices. In this sense, cooking is akin to the creation of a skilled craftsman, where the focus is on perfecting a traditional recipe, honing a specific method, or achieving a certain texture and flavor. For example, a chef like Edna Lewis, who learned to cook from her mother and grandmother, could be seen as a craftsperson. Her fried chicken, as described, is a masterful interpretation of a traditional recipe, preserving and enhancing its essence. Lewis's dish is less about innovation and more about execution and tradition.

Science and Cooking

On the other hand, the application of scientific principles to cooking can significantly enhance the creative process. Techniques such as sous-vide, pressure cooking, and molecular gastronomy are examples of how modern cooking has embraced science. For instance, the chicken dish by Thomas Keller from the French Laundry/Per Se Cookbook exemplifies this blend. Keller approached chicken preparation with a scientific mindset, breaking down the bird into its component parts, manipulating the flavors, and achieving a highly composed, innovative presentation.

The Intersection of Art and Craft

Many claim that cooking should be viewed as a form of art. This argument often centers on the creative freedom and the expression of a chef's vision. In this view, cooking is not just about technique but about conveying an emotional or intellectual idea through food. A dish by Keller, for instance, presents a complex narrative about the chicken, its textures, and its flavors, almost like a modernist sculpture. However, to claim that a dish is merely artistic without considering its craftsmanship is to overlook the hard work and dedication that goes into achieving such a balanced and visually pleasing result.

A Contemporary Perspective

As cooking has evolved, so too has the acceptance of scientific methods within the culinary world. The integration of science in cooking does not diminish the craft aspect but rather enriches it. Chefs today are increasingly aware of the physiological and psychological effects of food and strive to create dishes that not only meet a high standard of taste and presentation but also evoke specific emotions or memories. This blend of art and science is evident in the meticulous approach seen in contemporary cuisine, where chefs like Keller and others use both their artistic intuition and scientific knowledge to push culinary boundaries.

Reflections on the Current State of Cooking

Reflecting on my own experience, I find myself more aligned with the craft aspect of cooking. While I appreciate the artistry and innovation that modern cuisine presents, I am fundamentally driven by a desire to craft dishes that are exceptional in their execution. For me, the goal is often to achieve excellence in a traditional recipe rather than reinvent it. The fried chicken I mentioned earlier is a prime example. It took three days, but the result was a perfect blend of crispy skin and tender meat, all without any need for overly complex techniques or extravagant presentation.

Conclusion

The question of whether cooking is art or craft is complex and multifaceted. While the dichotomy between art and science may seem clear, the reality is that the best dishes often result from a harmonious blend of both. Whether through meticulous craftsmanship or innovative scientific techniques, the ultimate goal remains the same: to create food that is not only delicious but also evokes emotions and memories. For me, this balance is what makes the culinary art both satisfying and rewarding.